Best known for his editorial work in Vogue, Harpers Bazaar, Elle, Glamour, and InStyle magazines, it was a huge honor to have him come to the studio and teach us editorial and fantasy makeup and the techniques we needed to do so.
When I heard that Roshar was coming, I canceled all my plans for my days off and planted myself in the front row. Although I do not do editorial or fantasy makeup, I knew that by watching this man’s techniques and skills, I was sure to learn something new and invaluable.
We had a few models for him to work with including my assistant Athena who is a professional model. And he showed us how to use a product to cover brows in order to use the eye area in a whole different way.
All the work on these models look airbrushed, yet he was able to achieve this effect by hand. And many times, what amazed me was his ability to use a sponge to blend.
On Day 2, he asked the class to come up with three words for inspiration and we came up with the words celestial, 80’s and film noir. He began working on Athena’s face with a white pigment.
He left the contour areas of her face untouched by the white. He began blending with a beauty blender (sponge) and then applied a blue into her contour.
What I found so profound was his use of highlighting and contouring. I am sure that most of you have seen this trend on Instagram, Pinterest and on every beauty blog and beauty counter around. What it is used for is to define the natural planes of the face and what it has devolved to is people thinking if they use a dark edge under their cheek bone they will look like Kim Kardashian.
Highlighting and Contouring is used because when filming or photographing the use of lighting will cause the face to appear flat. By using light and dark, an artist can create dimension. Roshar was able to demonstrate this in a way that profoundly affected my perception of how to apply makeup.
I was able to truly see how to do this in a way that for those of us who are over 40 and want to add a little dimension back to our faces can do so in a simple and effective manner! I can’t wait to share my new perspective and try it out on you.
As you can see from the brilliance of Roshar’s works, he is a true master. Here were some of my takeaways from spending time with this humble, creative and generous man.
Get out of the box
Do something different
Look from a “beginners eye”
Playing with makeup is really fun
Highlighting and contouring really does make a difference
Blending is an extraordinary thing
Look for inspiration everywhere
And a perspective from Rosie Gillespie, a fantasy and editorial makeup artist, at Authentic Beauty
- Never overthink or stress about the detail work until the very end- this will save you time!
- Never powder or set anything until the last step so that you can always reblend or change something if you need to.
- Don’t stress or tone down something if it looks too dark or intense in the beginning (like contouring or blush) because it will most likely be balanced when the final look is complete.
- ProsAid is the best product for blocking out eyebrows!
- When doing eyes, apply the darker colors and then the lighter colors- not the other way around.
- Use the natural shadows on the face as a guideline for your contouring every time.
- Imagine the face breaking through the surface of water when highlighting-think about where and when the light would hit each part.
- Use eyeshadows and matte powders to adjust the colors of liquid and cream products after applied- if a contour is too orange, use a grey to make it more neutral.
- It’s ALL color theory and anatomy.
- Always tell yourself “This is not the step that is going to be photographed.” when spending too long on one part of the face and move on.